And - diesel fuel can last 20 years without going bad anyway - so it's usually not a concern. And, what was it? With most stabilizers - you won't affect anything by adding four-times too much - except your wallet. If it was running OK I'm wondering why you added the stabilizer. Unfortunately, he used four times too much stabilizer. Then he replaced the fuel hoses and added some diesel fuel stabilizer. Is it possible that the problem results from not purging using the bleed screws on top of the iinjectors?ΔΆ010friend wrote:My buddy was given and pretty nice JD2010. If this was a simple glow-plug problem, why did it run prior to the fuel line replacement? One had a hole in the tip, the other had the terminal missing off the top (but it could have fallen off during plug removal). We turned it over with starting fluid but it would only keep running if we kept spraying the fluid in the air intake. We're sure we got the bubbles out of the filters. However, it looked like fuel was flowing out the lines with some what good pressure. We did not use the bleed screws at the top on the ejectors because at the time we did not have the manual and thus didn't know they were there. The lines were purged by cracking the nut on the lines. We kept purging until the contaminated (with red colored stabilizer) fuel looked pristine. We purged the tank, filters, and lines and added fresh fuel. No pointers so far with the issues at hand so I am going to proceed as planned.My buddy was given and pretty nice JD2010. It is helpfull to dicuss these matters with others who have more experience, prior to the start of work. Would be foolish to have it tore down this far and be so lazy as not to replace these items. I have replaced the housing and am replacing all of the seals and gaskets as I reassemble the steering cluthe/final drive assemblies. After tear down I discovered that the right side clutch housing had been cracked and repaired. The right side clutch was froze when purchased. No signifigant gear, shaft or bearing wear. The good side is that all of the internal components are at or close to factory specs. The under carriage has required extensive repair/replacement of parts and pieces. I don't belive it was ever worked too hard, but nor did it see the grease gun enough. The crawler I have was an one farm tractor. I am about a year behind on my project also, but would rather take my time than rush and make big mistakes. Lavoy, are going to the Gathering in March? We missed ya in '06!! Soon I will be getting a shopping list together and give Lavoy a shout. The bull gear doesn't look to bad, but the pinion gear has gone bye bye. But I wish I knew what the spec is regarding this diameter tolerance. It is scored, but I believe there is still about 75% of the original (ground) bearing surface so I'm guessing that is enough surface to reuse as is. The problem I'm having is trying to determine the amount of damage that has been done generally and more specifically the surface on the shaft where the bearing rides. What a mess!! I knew the left side had problems when I bought this machine three years ago last May (ya can't rush into these things) because the sprocket was about 10 degrees out of plumb in addition to the engine being stuck. The bearing on mine did not have to be removed, I just had to pick out all the pieces of what use to be the bearing. Loader and scarfier are removed and now I have removed the final drive housing and have pulled the flanged axle shaft. I am about at the same stage of disassembly as you are.
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